Answering Some Death Valley Photography Questions

“Dave” wrote to ask some questions about Death Valley in February, and I thought it might be useful to share my replies with others who are thinking about a visit to that localation.

• Jeep Wrangler good idea for the area and to get into the Racetrack?

First, I’ve posted here a few times about the logistics of visiting and photographing at the Racetrack – you might want to take a look at this post.

A Jeep Wrangler should get you out to the Racetrack Playa just fine. The main difficulties with the road involve very badly washboarded surface, some very gravelly spots (especially near the start), and the fact that you’ll cover 27 miles of this stuff one way. It is not a particularly steep or twisty road. In normal conditions I would feel OK doing it in a two wheel drive vehicle as long as it had good ground clearance and good tires – and the Wrangler should qualify.

Unless you want to drive (too) fast and risk tire damage, you’ll want to give yourself perhaps a couple hours one way.

• We are thinking of camping at the Racetrack… your stories and images from there are amazing.

Thanks. It is an amazing place.

I am strongly of the opinion that if you are going to the trouble to drive all the way out there to do photography that you really should stay overnight! I like to start shooting at “the Grandstand” in the middle to late afternoon, then figure out my camping situation and eat, and then get out onto the Playa well before sunset to find my shots and start working. I shoot until after dark – and into the night if there is a full moon. I stop when I’m too tired to keep shooting and then sleep until before dawn, when I’m up early enough again to be on the playa before sunrise.

There is a “campground” a short distance beyond the playa. It is very primitive. As I recall there is a primitive pit toilet, no water, and just a few pullouts along the side of the road. The silence at night here is a powerful experience. Some people sleep in their cars back at the turnouts at the south end of the Playa.

• Stovepipe Wells – have you camped or stayed in the village? Need a reservation for camping?

I’ve camped there a few times and I’ve always been able to get a campsite without a reservation – but I don’t usually visit at the most busy times. I suspect that it shouldn’t be too overcrowded in February and that if you arrive on a weekday you should be fine. If it does fill there are lots of other options for camping. I have not stayed at the motel there, though I have eaten at the restaurant and borrowed their open wireless service. (At least through last year it was the Slowest Wireless in The World.) You can also pay to use their showers and pool if you stay at the campground, and there is a small grocery store there.

The campground isn’t exactly beautiful. It is very exposed, near the roadway, and full of RVs and other large vehicles. That said, I’d still stay there again.

There is also a larger campground at Furnace Creek – several campgrounds actually. There is the main campground right at Furnace Creek – often crowded but with some trees and close to the visitor center. Across the road there is a trailer/RV campground, and a short distance into the hills is a nice and rather smaller tent campground – I believe it is called the sunset campground. Of the three, I prefer that one.

• Know any especially good hikes, especially for midday times? I will be shooting early and late – he does have some interest in photography – but I want to make sure we spend considerable time on foot to counter what I figure will be a ton of miles driving.

You are right about the “ton” of driving. The distances in DV are often quite large and you may drive for several hours to get from one special place to another. I sometimes like to visit some of the narrow canyons a bit closer to the middle of the day – they can be photographed a bit later, too, since the light doesn’t penetrate them until closer to the middle of the day. Marble and Golden Canyon are both good hikes.

A great long day trip that I have done a few times starts by driving over to the ghost town of Rhyolite in Nevada just east of the park near Beatty. I like to be there to photograph before sunrise and then spend an hour or two shooting there. Afterward you can make the short drive to Beatty to get less expensive gas and a decent and less expensive breakfast. Once you are out this way you are in a good location to return to DV by way of the spectacular road through Titus Canyon. It is a long gravel road that in a few places is a bit steep and exposed, but views are tremendous. In the lower part of the canyon you pass between walls that are barely far enough apart for your car to pass.

If you enjoy such things, the tour of Scotty’s castle can be an interesting diversion from the more “outdoor” activities, too.

• He has shown some interest in a side trip to Lone Pine to see Mt Whitney and the Alabama Hills… good use of time or stay in DV?

If you start to feel that you are looking for a change of scenery this could be an interesting trip. It will probably take you the better part of a day to drive all the way over there and back and see stuff. If you can get up early enough the best light is dawn light on that side of the Sierra.

• Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Well, there are a lot of iconic sights to see in DV. These include:

  • Zabriskie Point at dawn. I’d try to do this on a morning when there might be a few clouds, and do get there plenty early.
  • 20 Mule Canyon is close by and you could visit it after going to Zabriskie.
  • There are two wonderful overlooks of the valley. Dantes View on the east side is probably the better known and slightly more accessible by paved road. On the west side of DV there is a dirt road off of the route to Wildrose Canyon that goes out to Aguereberry Point. This is a stunning overlook, and I like to visit it in the late afternoon, staying until the sun sets over the Sierra.
  • You’ll probably want to visit Badwater. If you want to photograph the famous salt formations, they are not easy to find right at Badwater. I drive a short distance south – round a turn to the right and another to the left, then stop and head down a gentle hill to the salt flats.
  • I already mentioned the possibility of shooting canyons later in the morning or before hitting your sunset location.
  • Mesquite Dunes (“Death Valley Dunes”) are a classic worth visiting. Many people drive to the point on the road that is closest to the tall dunes and start walking. I do not enjoy this walk very much. I prefer to start closer to Stovepipe Wells and head around the “left” side of the dunes and approach from the side/rear. If I could only shoot the dunes once it would probably be morning, though there can be some wonderful light right around and just after sunset.
  • There is much more, but you can probably play it by ear.

For me, working alone on photography, a typical daily plan might be something like the following:

  • Shoot a dawn subject.
  • Shoot a morning subject.
  • Either knock off and take in easy in the middle of the day or get in a long drive to my afternoon/evening location.
  • Shoot a middle or late afternoon subject.
  • Shoot a sunset subject.

Evolving some sort of plan – even if you do it on the spot – can help.

Have a great trip!

7 thoughts on “Answering Some Death Valley Photography Questions”

  1. G Dan Mitchell ,

    Thankyou !..Thank you for having this website and share your experience.I found so much informations I was looking for about the diffrent site I was looking for.
    I’m bless I’ve found you.

    Wife and I will be in DV in 3 weeks. We are hoping to get to the Racetrack. Is it possible to slowly reach the Racetrack with a small RV. I understand that camping is possible beyong the playa.

    truly,

    Marc

    1. Hi:

      There are a couple of things to be concerned about if you are planning to visit the Racetrack at this time of year. The Racetrack is about 27 miles (45 kilometers?) one way on a rather bad gravel road, so the roundtrip is twice that distance. This is a long drive on a very rough road. In my experience, the main concerns are good tires and good ground clearance, since there are places with very badly rutted road and some large rocks can occasionally appear in the road. I have driven it in a 4WD Subaru Outback and an older Dodge Durango 4WD. While some people do drive this road in lighter vehicles, I do not recommend it.

      The second, and somewhat serious, concern at this time of the year is the potential for extreme heat. While it will not be as hot as it is at, say, Furnace Creek, it can easily be well above 100 degrees Fahrenheit and there is no water at all anywhere out where you will be going.

      In general, I do not recommend that people go to the Racetrack at this time of year unless they are very experienced in this challenging environment and well-equipped.

      Dan

  2. With his permission, I am sharing a post from Robert Pearce on an important consideration when visiting the Racetrack:

    Thank you for including the aspect of not “tracking up” the racetrack in the linked article. I feel very strongly about this as you may remember from my soapbox speech here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sierrasolstice/3004039875/in/set-72157618364554307/ . I think this really needs to be emphasized for anyone planning trips in winter/early spring. It is hard to travel all the way out there without exploring, but the consequences are devastating. If you want to include any of my ramblings or a link, you are welcome too.

    I’ve seen these tracks, too, and they angered and disappointed me. I’ve written before and here it is again: if you visit the Racetrack at a time when the playa is flooded or muddy… enjoy the areas around the playa but don’t walk on the playa. Those who are so thoughtless as to leave their tracks on the muddy playa will mar the great beauty of this place for years or longer.

    Dan

  3. Dan, to my knowledge, no overnight options are included. The tours begin around 8 in the morning from Furnace Creek Ranch (the jeep itself comes from Las Vegas) in a high clearance vehicle that typically seats around 5-6 people, and the entire tour lasts around 6-7 hours including travel time. As I recall, the price per passenger is around $180-$200.

  4. Excellent summary of visiting death valley!

    Since DV is so huge, I often suggest to people that they focus on a smaller piece of the park and stick to it for the duration of their visit. So much time can be wasted in the car if you try to see it all on one trip. For the first visit, it’s fun to zip around and see all of the standard pavement-accessible touristy spots, but to really see the park you need to get off the beaten track.

    I go every year and focus on the different activities offered by the chosen ‘chunk’ – photography, peak bagging, canyon exploration, wandering old mine sites, rock art, some 4×4, etc. Over the course of 10 years I’ve been able to get deep into the park, seeing things that most people never get the chance to explore because they are too busy wasting daylight driving the four hours between Eureka Dunes and Badwater. Remember – DV is bigger than some states! One of the most common things I hear from friends and coworkers after their first visit: “It’s beautiful but it’s so BIG. I wish I didn’t have to spend so much time driving between everything.”

    If looking for hike suggestions, I strongly recommend the books by Michael Digonnet –

    http://www.amazon.com/Hiking-Death-Valley-Natural-Wonders/dp/0965917800/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1262972389&sr=1-1

    and

    http://www.amazon.com/Hiking-Western-Death-Valley-National/dp/0965917819/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1262972389&sr=1-3

    And if you’re into peak bagging you can’t forget the desert peak bagger’s bible:

    http://www.amazon.com/Desert-Summits-Climbing-California-Southern/dp/1893343022/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1262972849&sr=1-1

    1. Thanks to both of you for your replies and additional info. Rajan, does that company have a schedule that permits overnight stays? If so, that could be a great alternative for many who don’t have a vehicle that is appropriate for this drive. Rebecca, you are most certainly right that DV is a huge place that doesn’t reveal itself in a single visit. My thinking is that a first-time visitor should probably go ahead and focus on a few of the iconic sights – they are icons for good reason – but then leave a bit of space to do one or two things on the spur of the moment… and then plan to return and push out the boundaries of their experience with the place on later visits.

      And not only is it impossible to see the whole place in one trip due to geographical issues, but also due to seasonal changes as well. I’ve been to the Racetrack when it was hot and dry – “typical” DV conditions. But I’ve also been there on freezing cold mornings when the wind was blowing at a full gale and the cloud shadows were speeding across the landscape. It takes more than one visit to get to know that diversity of conditions.

      (This is my philosophy when it comes to almost all places that I photograph.)

      Dan

Join the discussion — leave a comment or question. (Comments are moderated and may not appear immediately.)

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.