Category Archives: Software

New Drivers (finally) Resolve Mac OS X 10.6 Epson 2200 Printing Problems

(IMPORTANT NOTE: I generally do not remove old articles from this web site since search engines and other links tend to point to them. This short article and link to Epson 2200 printer drivers was accurate when it was originally posted, but you should consult current information sources and perhaps contact Epson directly for update information. In all likelihood, based on my past experience, this printer and other older Epson printers will not be supported indefinitely by Epson. For my part, I would not get a 2200 at this point, no matter how cheap it was – and I have not owned a 2200 since perhaps 2010 or so.)

A while back I posted about serious problems with the Epson 2200 printer when used with Apple’s Mac OS X 10.6.x “Snow Leopard” operating system. I won’t recount the whole story here (that’s what links are for!) but the short version is that Epson had not updated their drivers when Apple released the OS update, and then Epson failed to communicate with their customers or update the drivers in a timely fashion – leaving photographers who used several of their printers including the 2200 “high and dry.”

The good news is that Epson did release updated drivers during the past week. The updated driver appears to resolve the very serious printing problems that rendered the 2200 essentially unusable for several months.

A Test: Correcting Perspective in Post-Processing

Earlier today I saw a post in which the author stated that correcting for perspective in post-processing would lead to serious problems:

There is quite a bit of loss in image definition if you do a significant amount of correction for converging verticals in an image editor. You can get far better results with a view camera or a tilt/shift lens. If you only photograph for the web, then maybe the image editor approach is ok, but for reasonably large prints?

While that point of view is widely held and often repeated, in my experience a blanket statement like this is not totally correct – it may come down to the definition of “significant.” I find that in many cases the degradation of the image is so small as to be insignificant or even invisible at 100% magnification, and it is most often completely invisible even in fairly good size prints. (This is not to suggest that those making severe corrections, in architectural photography for example, would not be better served by using a tilt/shift DSLR lens or a MF or LF system.)

Rather than just accepting statements like this, I like to test them. In the past I’ve tested and written about the option of correcting for lens distortions in post- processing: A Test: Correcting Lens Distortion in Post Processing. Here I want to extend this concept to using post-processing techniques for the correction of perspective distortion and for leveling the image.

The photograph I’ll use was shot handheld using a full-frame Canon 5D with the EF 35mm f/2 lens, one of my favorites for street photography. First a small version of the final photograph:


Borch’s Iron Works and Machine Shop – old metal shop building in the downtown area of San Jose, California. © Copyright G Dan Mitchell – all rights reserved.

Next is the same image with the same post-processing, except that the corrections to horizontal alignment and perspective have been left out:


Borch’s Iron Works and Machine Shop – old metal shop building in the downtown area of San Jose, California. Uncorrected version. © Copyright G Dan Mitchell – all rights reserved.

Yup, that’s what happens when you shoot street and shoot handheld. ;-)

In this example we can clearly see several problems that need fixing. First, the image is not level – it tilts down to the right. Second, the vertical lines begin to converge toward the top of the image. Third, since the camera’s sensor was not perfectly parallel to the building wall, the right side of the building recedes and gets smaller as the horizontal lines become closer together toward the right edge.

In my view, the uncorrected version of this photograph is not usable. On the other hand, I’m not likely to start doing street photography with a tripod and a tilt shift lens any time soon! Correction in post seems to be a reasonable option. (And, to cut to the chase, the corrected version seen above really does make a nice print.)

The next image includes two versions of roughly the same section of the photograph at 100% magnification. The crops come from the lower left area of the full image and include the conduit on the wall in the area in full sun. I could have used a section from all the way in the corner, but given the low contrast in that area the difference between the samples would be even harder to see – so I’ll stick with the section where the conduit provides a more visible contrast and frame of reference. Depending on your monitor, this resolution is equivalent to looking at a small section from a print that would be perhaps 50″ or 60″ wide. (Hint: that would be a very big print for a DSLR original – significantly larger than almost anyone ever produces! Made many 60″ x 40″ prints recently?)


100% magnification from lower left area of ‘Borch’s Iron Works and Machine Shop’ – two versions. © Copyright G Dan Mitchell – all rights reserved.

I believe that if you know what to look for and you  inspect this 100% crop very closely you can detect a small difference in the “sharpness” of the two photographs – but it is quite subtle even when viewed at 100%. In practical terms, however, this tiny effect that is just barely visible under close inspection at 100% in side-by-side comparisons on the screen is entirely insignificant in a print. Even with a very close inspection it would be quite invisible in a print of, say, 18″ x 24″ and probably even larger. Bottom line: Both would produce very sharp prints at very large sizes and essentially no one would comment that one is sharper than the other… though quite a few might notice that the corrected image looks a whole lot less distorted in the spatial sense.

Note: Article text edited/updated for clarity on 4/27/13.

This reinforces my belief that any degradation to the image quality that occurs when lens distortion, perspective, and/or horizontal level are corrected carefully during the post-processing stage can be very minimal and in the majority of situations will be invisible in prints.


G Dan Mitchell is a California photographer and visual opportunist. His book, “California’s Fall Color: A Photographer’s Guide to Autumn in the Sierra” is available from Heyday Books and Amazon.

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FocalWare Moonrise Calculator for the iPhone

Andy Frazer links to a description of some software that is almost enough to make me buy an iPod Touch. (Not an iPhone – the monthly fee is too high for the way I use a phone. :-) FocalWare Moonrise Calculator for the iPhone.

Product Recommendation: PhotoRescue

A few weeks ago I returned from a three-day pack trip in Yosemite with several hundred photographs on an 8GB compact flash card. As soon as I got home (yes, five minutes after midnight…) I popped the card into my firewire card reader and watched Adobe Bridge launch and present me with the screen for importing the files to my computer. I hit the appropriate buttons…

… and watched the program freeze.

Stuff happens. I relaunched and tried again – only to find that the card data had been corrupted. Not only did the Finder report that there was now a single mysterious 4GB file and not photos on the card, but inserting the card caused most applications I tried to run to freeze almost immediately.

A quick search led me to the PhotoRescue web site, from which I downloaded their “expert” version of PhotoRescue 2.1. I quickly installed the application and put the program to work analyzing the damaged card. It found hundreds of RAW files from my Canon 5D and all but two appeared to be OK.

PhotoRescue provides a rather unique method of online distribution. You dowload the program for free, apparently usually in the throes of panic over a bad memory card, and you run it. It does the card analysis and file location and shows you thumbnails of all the files that it can recover. (In my case this included not only this week’s photos, but others that remained on the card from previous use.) If the program finds salvageable files you can decide to purchase the full program (US$29) to copy them from the card to your computer, which is just what I did. I can’t think of a more fair approach to selling this software.

Before long I had transferred all of the RAW files from the recent shoot to my hard drive, made a backup of the files, and used ACR to open (and rename) the files. At this point I did discover damage to a couple of the recovered files, but the vast majority (all but two or three) had been fully salvaged and were ready for use.

Here is one shot that I would have lost without PhotoRescue.

436

Boulder, Lower Young Lake. Yosemite National Park, California. September 10, 2007. © Copyright G Dan Mitchell.

(Update 10/9/07: I later figured out that this problem was not caused by the card or the camera. It was the result of leaving an old firewire device plugged into a firewire hub that I had attached to a new computer – an incompatibility between the new computer and the old device led to the corruption.)