Category Archives: Tests

Sharpness and Aperture Selection on Full-Frame DSLRs

(Note: This article was originally posted in 2007 and I should probably update the test using newer gear – though the point of the test and the post remains.)

Last month I wrote about a set of tests (“Full Frame Lens Test“) that I conducted with my lenses and my Canon 5D body. My object was simply to better understand how the camera/lens combinations would behave so that I could make better decisions about appropriate lenses and apertures while making photographs.

One discovery was that, compared to using a crop sensor DSLR, I can get excellent results when I shoot at smaller apertures with good lenses on the full frame body. I tended to avoid apertures smaller than about f/8 on the crop sensor camera, but there seems to be little or no real liability in using f/11 or even f/16 on full frame.

To illustrate I put together the following composite image. (The image appears in reduced form on this page. Click the link to see the full size version.)

Diffraction Blur Test Image
A sequence of text photographs illustrating diffraction blur at several apertures on a full frame camera

The example includes five versions of a small section from near the center of a photograph taken with the Canon EOS 5D using the EF 24-105mm L IS lens at a 50mm focal length. The camera was on a tripod, MLU and a remote release were used, and the AF was turned off. The images are 100% crops – in other words, actual pixel size is displayed in these tiny excepts from the much larger original images. (You would virtually never view a print at this magnification. These are equivalent to tiny sections from a print that might be about 5 feet wide!) The images have been slightly sharpened in post-processing, but are otherwise unaltered.

I shot at apertures of f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, and f/16. In terms of the sharpness of this portion of the image, I am quite certain that all five examples are plenty sharp for making prints. That said, there are some differences. To my eye:

  • The f/4 and, to some extent, the f/5.6 versions are slightly but noticeably softer at this magnification.
  • The f/8 and f/11 versions seem to me to have approximately equal sharpness. Some parts of the f/8 image seem slightly sharper, but other parts of the f/11 image seem sharper. In the end they are pretty darn equivalent, though I’d maybe give the f/11 a very slight edge overall.
  • The f/16 image may be slightly less sharp than the f/8 and f/11 versions, but the difference would not be noticeable in a print, even a rather large one. In any case, f/16 appears sharper than either f/4 or f/5.6.

After doing this test I no longer hesitate to shoot at f/11 or f/16. Not only does this give me the possibility of getting greater depth of field when I need it, but it also means that I can compensate for corner softness on some lenses (e.g. the 17-40mm) by using a smaller aperture without fear of losing center sharpness.

(Addition: 4/23/07 – Other Canon L lenses seem to give similar results, including my 17-40mm f/4 L and my 70-200mm f/4 L.)

Added 2/23/08:

In response to a question in a photo forum I put together a sample image showing corner sharpness from the same original images used in the example above. (The earlier example shows 100% crops from near the center of the frame.)

(image temporarily unavailable) Canon 24-105mm f/4 L IS lens corner sharpness test

Technical info: Shot using a Canon 5D with the Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS lens at a 50mm focal length. In aperture priority mode, the aperture was changed manually between shots. Initial focus was with AF, which was then switched off before shooting the series. Camera was on a tripod and MLU and remote release were used. Shots were converted from RAW with ACR and no additional post-processing applied. Print made at this resolution would be approximately five feet wide. The crop is from the far lower left corner of the frame.

In addition to noting the softer image in the corner at f/4, also note that the image is a bit darker due to the expected increase in corner light fall-off (“vignetting”) at the largest aperture. Sharpest version in this series shot with a FF body seems to be at f/11 as in the center crop example above. But note that f/8, f/11, and f/16 are not very different in overall sharpness – and in the end any of these apertures would produce a very sharp print.

In response to another forum discussion, I have added another example, this time using the Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 lens and showing performance at f/5.6, f/8, f/11, and f/16. In other respects the test is the same as described already in this post. This image is seen to the right and below.

(image temporarily unavailable)

Conclusions: Based on this set of images and other taken with different lenses under similar conditions, I have come to some conclusions that work for me with my Canon lenses and full-frame Canon 5D body.

  • In general the sharpest whole aperture seems to be around f/11.
  • It is very difficult to distinguish any resolution differences at f/8 or f/16 – there are subtle differences when viewing the test images at 100% magnification on my monitor but these are essentially invisible in prints.
  • f/5.6 or f/22 will tend to be a bit less sharp, though perhaps not for the same reasons. At f/5.6 I begin to notice a bit more of the diminished sharpness as a lens is opened up – more on some lenses than on others. At f/22 the effects of diffraction become just a bit more noticeable. However, if the shot demands it I do not hesitate (much) to use either of these apertures as the very slight decrease in sharpness is quite tiny if visible at all in a print and both provide some other advantages in certain situations. (I’ll even use the largest f/4 aperture on the test lens when isolating the subject is important or when low light demands it – and the results will typically be just fine.)
  • At larger apertures the performance becomes more tied to the particular lens so it is more difficult to make any generalizations beyond the fact that vignetting increases and sharpness will be less optimal.
  • The smaller apertures decrease any corner light fall-off (“vignetting”) or softness, generally to a point where both are insignificant.
  • With all of this in mind, unless I have a reason to select some other aperture I typically use f/11 as my general starting point when shooting with my full-frame DSLR body.

G Dan Mitchell is a California photographer whose subjects include the Pacific coast, redwood forests, central California oak/grasslands, the Sierra Nevada, California deserts, urban landscapes, night photography, and more.
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Text, photographs, and other media are © Copyright G Dan Mitchell (or others when indicated) and are not in the public domain and may not be used on websites, blogs, or in other media without advance permission from G Dan Mitchell.

Full Frame Lens Test

I recently acquired a full frame camera body, and I’m interested in understanding more fully how my lenses work with it. Issues that interest me include:

  • How sharp is each lens on the full frame body?
  • How is sharpness affected at various focal lengths on zoom lenses?
  • What are the optimal apertures on each lens in terms of sharpness?
  • How does vignetting change at different apertures and focal lengths?
  • How is corner sharpness affected by aperture and focal length?
  • Are there significant differences between the performance levels of two lenses that have the same focal length?

Today I conducted an informal test. I wasn’t trying to find out if I have “good copies” of my lenses. Rather, my goal was to understand the “personality” of each lens a bit better. I can’t say I answered all of these questions, but I did come up with some interesting results, some of which confirmed what I expected and some that surprised me a bit.

The Canon lenses I tested are the EF 50mm f/1.4, the EF 17-40mm f/4L, the 24-105mm f/4 IS L, and the 70-200 f/4 L.

The test was simple – and I can’t claim scientific accuracy. I went to a familiar location nearby that features a ridge covered with grass and oak trees a few hundred yards away with closer grass, oak trees, a trail, and a fence in the mid-ground, and new grass in the foreground. I put the camera on a tripod, used mirror lockup, and a remote switch. I used auto-focus to pre-focus on the ridge, and then I turned AF off before shooting. With each lens, I then made a series of manual exposures at apertures ranging from f/4 to f/16 (slightly wider in one case). With zooms I repeated the test at the wide and tele ends and at one or two points in between.

I’m not going to post all of the results here, but I will share a few interesting things that I confirmed or discovered.

  • Overall, the lenses produce sharper images on the full frame body of my 12 MP Canon 5D. That said, the difference would probably not be noticeable unless you made a fairly large print.
  • All of the lenses vignette noticeably at their widest apertures and generally at one stop smaller. Vignetting was reduced to inconsequential levels in all cases by f/8 and in some cases sooner. (In any case, vignetting is not always a bad thing – just something to understand.)
  • I was surprised to see how well the lenses did at f/16. The common wisdom regarding diffraction (or the “circle of confusion”) is that lenses will be sharpest around f/8 or even a bit larger aperture, and that sharpness will degrade noticeably by f/16. Frankly, I just didn’t see that. There might be a little bit of degradation at f/16, but I have to look very hard for it in 100% crops. I’m more inclined to go ahead an use f/16 now in situations where I might previously have avoided it.
  • Not surprisingly, corner sharpness improves at smaller apertures. My 17-40mm has been soft enough on occasion that I’ve been compelled to crop off the edges of images. However, even this lens does quite well almost all the way to the corners at f/16 and it is better at f/11 than at f/8. An important factor is that I did not see any significant (as in “noticeable”) degradation of center sharpness when using the smaller apertures to get better corner sharpness. This is an important discovery – I think I’ll be much more likely to shoot the 17-40 at f/11 or even f/16 now.
  • I need to clean my sensor… :-) I had previously noticed a couple of spots that required post-processing removal in Photoshop when I shot at f/8. Such spots and even slightly smaller ones become more visible at the smaller apertures.
  • Good zooms are very sharp. While my 50mm f/1.4 prime is very good corner to corner at apertures like f/5.6 or f/8, the performance of the zooms is very close in almost all cases.

Some people get carried away with testing their lenses and trying to find the absolute perfect lens. That wasn’t my point. My goal was to understand the effect of my lens choices and to understand how to get the best image quality that these lenses can produce in a variety of situations. In that regard, I think this was a very valuable exercise.

—–

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 IS L Lens

(Updated December 28, 2011.)

I have owned the Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 IS L lens since 2006. I originally picked this lens for several reasons:

  • On my full-frame cameras,  this lens covers a very useful range from fairly wide to slightly long, making it a very flexible and versatile lens.
  • The lens is quite sharp and has good contrast throughout its focal length range.
  • For its focal length range the lens is relatively compact. This is important to me since I frequently hike or backpack with photo gear.
  • The f/4 maximum aperture is generally sufficient for the kinds of photography I do.
  • The image stabilization (IS) feature is helpful for handheld photography and somewhat compensates for the f/4 maximum aperture.

Like most lenses, this one has a “personality” that gives it particular strengths and weaknesses relative to the individual photographer’s work and working methods. My extensive experience with the lens convinces me of the following:

  • Resolution is very good when the lens is used with care. Sharpness is excellent throughout the focal length range, being best in the middle portion as expected. Sharpness can diminish a bit at the long end compared to, say, 50mm – but this is usually not a reason to switch to another lens except in those cases where I have plenty of time to do so.
  • Vignetting (corner light falloff) is certainly noticeable at f/4 and especially so at the shortest focal lengths. For most of my photography this is not an issue since I most often shoot at smaller apertures. However, I do shoot the lens at f/4 and wide angle focal lengths. In these cases a) the vignetting is actually a nice effect with some subjects, b) it can be corrected easily and pretty much automatically in post when necessary.
  • Barrel/pincushion distortion is mostly not an issue, though the lens does produce noticeable barrel distortion at 24mm. Here the situation is somewhat similar to that with vignetting. In most cases, I don’t even notice the barrel distortion in actual photographs. I do notice it in photographs that have lines parallel to and close to the edges of the frame. When necessary, I let my raw conversion software (ACR) apply an automatic correction and the image lines up nicely and still has very good resolution.
  • There is a false notion that this lens is not sharp at 24mm. This is incorrect. I think that this rumor -which is what it is – got started on internet discussion boards where people morphed the descriptions of the vignetting and barrel distortion into “poor performance at 24mm” and then further to “must not be sharp.” This is simply wrong. Sharpness is fine at 24mm.
  • Handling is great. Compared to the lens sometimes cited as an alternative, the 24-70mm f/2.8 L, this lens is more compact and a bit lighter. The lens is solidly built and the controls are accessible and easy to use.
  • Over time any lens can go out of adjustment and require service. If you use your lenses a lot, you will eventually discover this truth. In my experience, two particular issues might eventually come up with this lens. First, I notice and others have described the development of “zoom creep” after a time. The tension on the zoom mechanism seems to loosen and if you point the lens straight down it may “zoom out.” Second, although I have only my own experience to go on here, I have a slight suspicion that the lens may be a bit more susceptible to going out of adjustment with rough treatment compared to some other Canon zooms. After a few years of being banged around on the trail, mine had to go in for adjustment of a focus issue on one side of the image. After adjustment it came back working great.
  • While a f/4 zoom is generally not going to be a super bokeh lens (though there are exceptions), this lens does OK. It can produce slightly “busy” bokeh at some middle apertures. Surprisingly, it produces very nice bokeh when used with an extension tube for macro work. (In fact, for hand held photography of things like wildflowers, extension tubes attached to this lens with its IS feature can work very well.)

The dimensions of the lens are similar to, but slightly larger than, my 17-40mm lens. However, the 24-105 is noticably heavier, though not enough so to compromise its use as a walk-around lens. Speaking of which, it is regarded by many as a nearly perfect lens for this role on full-frame bodies. In fact, I’ve had great success using it for street photography!

On a 1.6 crop factor body it is less useful as a single lens solution than it is on a full frame body, since 24mm is not all that wide on this camera. (It is roughly equivalent to a 38mm lens of a full frame body which is only moderately wide.) I did use it on a cropped sensor body for about a year when I first purchased it. In practice, I found that I tended to switch back and forth between the 24-105 a wider zoom a lot. Unless you are not fond of wide angle shooting or you like to switch lenses a lot, there can be better solutions for use on cropped sensor bodies. The following are a couple of other lenses to consider if you shoot a cropped sensor body: Canon EF-S 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Lens or
Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM Zoom Lens. (The links go to site sponsor B&H Photo.)

My article on backpacking photography discusses how I combine the 24-105 with other lenses to produce a very viable and reasonably light backpacking kit.  In a few cases I have gotten along quite nicely on pack trips with just the 24-105 , though in most cases I combine it with the Canon 17-40mm f/4 L and/or the Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L for more flexibility.

Bottom line: I’m quite happy with the EF 24-105 f/4 IS L lens. Color and contrast are great and it is very sharp for a zoom. The zoom range is excellent on a full frame body and might be useful for some shooters even on a 1.6 crop factor camera.

Related:

This lens is available from site sponsor B&H Photo, and your purchase though links at this site help support the blog. If this information was useful to you in making your decision, please consider purchase through the following link: Canon 24-105mm f/4L IS at B&H

Other gear mentioned in this article, with links to B&H:

G Dan Mitchell Photography
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Text, photographs, and other media are © Copyright G Dan Mitchell (or others when indicated) and are not in the public domain and may not be used on websites, blogs, or in other media without advance permission from G Dan Mitchell.

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Canon 17-40mm f4 L Sharpness: Two Examples

Someone in an online forum I read asked for example images from sharp Canon 17-40mm f4 L lenses. I posted the following images from mine. Both are 100% crops from 8MP originals shot on a 1.6x crop sensor body and, as such, they comprise a very tiny excerpt from the full original image.

(For those who are unfamiliar with the “100% crop” terminology… you are looking at a display in which each pixel of the original image occupies one pixel on your computer monitor. Another way to think of this is that if the 100% crop came from a 12MP original, the crop is roughly equivalent to looking at a tiny section of a print that is about 5 feet wide.)

1740CropDemo: 17-40 lens. 100% crop.

The upper half is an unprocessed image. I converted it in Adobe Camera raw, then took it into Photoshop to crop and save as a .jpg. The second one was slightly sharpened in Photoshop using the Smart Sharpen tool. Pretty sharp, I’d say!

UPDATE: Here is another example of the potential for image sharpness with the Canon EF 17-40mm f/4 L lens. This is a 100% crop of a photo of some old mining equipment at Bodie, California.

BoltSharp17-40: Sharp image of bolts shot with 17-40 lens

G Dan Mitchell Photography
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Text, photographs, and other media are © Copyright G Dan Mitchell (or others when indicated) and are not in the public domain and may not be used on websites, blogs, or in other media without advance permission from G Dan Mitchell.

(Basic EXIF data is available by “mousing over” large images in blog posts. Leave a comment if you want to know more.)