Recently I have heard some photographers suggest that IBIS-equipped cameras have made tripods obsolete. IBIS is a fine thing, but that overstates the case.
“Photographer Patricia Mitchell” — Photographer Patricia Mitchell at work in early morning autumn light in the Eastern Sierra Nevada.
Contemporary cameras incorporate remarkable advances in camera and lens image stabilization. Some newer cameras with IBIS (In-camera Image stabilization) claim to extend the useful range of shutter speeds for handheld photography by as much as seven stops.
IBIS can be very useful for photographers who shoot handheld. I do urban night street photography using a handheld, IBIS-equipped camera that supports high ISOs — and I can capture subjects that would have been just about impossible to photograph a few decades ago.
“Working the Red Rock Landscape” — Photographers at work in Utah’s red rock country
Morning Musings are back! Today I have a few general thoughts about tripods — not aimed at those who are already confirmed tripod users, but rather at those who find it hard to bother using them.
To start, let’s admit that one does not always need a tripod. For certain types of photography in which quick response is required and being too obviously a photographer can interfere with photographs, it is usually better to not use one. There are exceptions to every rule, but you are unlikely to use a tripod for most street photography, for personal and family photography at home and on vacations, for certain kinds of portrait work, casual travel photography, and so on.
Let’s also agree that using a tripod is a burden, especially at first when you haven’t accepted the extra trouble and when you haven’t developed instincts that make tripod use a lot more automatic. I’ll readily admit to being less than thrilled on about the 50th time that I must remove my tripod from the car or pack, extend and lock the legs, level the thing, attach the camera, and only then make a photograph… after which I have to reverse the process: remove the camera, collapse the tripod legs, stow the thing once again. The slightly put-upon feeling diminishes as you get used to it, but it never goes away entirely. (The good news here is that the process of setting up and using the tripod does eventually become much quicker and much more automatic.)
“Photographer Franka M. Gabler” — Franka M. Gabler in the field photographing in the San Joaquin Valley
So, why use it then? There are more reasons than you might imagine.
Stability is an obvious advantage of the tripod. While you can, with care and practice, often hold a camera quite steadily and produce very sharp images when shooting handheld, you simply cannot eliminate all of the blur that comes when you hold the camera in your hands. And if you do happen to have very steady hands, you still will make mistakes that produce blur — working a bit too fast you may introduce a bit of camera vibration in some shots and you will reduce the number of successful results. A good tripod used correctly can virtually eliminate camera motion and vibration. This is especially important when doing types of photography that intrinsically require longer shutter speeds. This obviously includes night photography. Low light, low ISO, long lenses, and small apertures often require landscape photographers to use rather long shutter speeds.
“Photographer, Sabrina Basin” — A photographer working the autumn colors from a ridgetop in Sabrina Basin, Sierra Nevada, as an early fall storm comes in.
High resolution cameras can capture images that may be reproduced at much larger sizes, and at those sizes the effects of minor camera stability issues become more visible. If you want to take advantage of such cameras’ potential for higher image resolution, the stability that comes with tripod use can be critical.
I responded to a question somewhere else and thought that it might be useful to share the response here, too. A photographer asked some questions about using long focal length telephoto lenses for landscape photography and how to deal with the issue of camera/lens stability, bringing up related questions about things like live view modes, mirror lockup, image-stabilization, and so forth. Here is what I wrote in response…
Black and white photograph of Rocky Creek Bridge with winter storm surf and fog. Big Sur coastline, California.
If you are shooting landscapes from the tripod…
Do use live view – it is the mode that introduces the least amount of shutter vibration.
Either mode 1 or 2 will perform essentially equally well when it comes to shutter vibration. (In both cases, there really isn’t any shutter motion vibration before the exposure since it is initiated electronically.
If you use a remote release (and you do, right?!) then there is no reason to use any delay setting on the camera to avoid vibration. (Many cameras have settings for 2 second or 10 second delays – mostly there so you can run and get in the photo, too!)
Mirror lockup is irrelevant in live view. The mirror is up by default in live view. To be even more explicit, live view and MLU are mutually exclusive modes – they cannot be used at the same time.
After touching the camera, moving the tripod, etc., wait a few seconds for vibrations to dissipate before making your exposure. I think that 2-3 seconds is sufficient, though some folks will claim that even longer might help.
Speaking of this, I would tend to avoid using either auto-focus (AF) mode when making landscape photographs with such a long lens. Either can introduce some amount of vibration to the system, but especially the mode that momentarily flips the mirror down, auto-focuses in the usual manner, then flips the mirror up to make the shot in live view. I prefer to manually focus at 10x magnification. If you must autofocus, do so before switching to live view mode, and then turn AF off before making the exposure.
Realize that the large area of these big lenses, combined with their very long focal lengths and great magnification, make the system far more susceptible to vibration from air movement. Even relatively weak breezes can create enough vibration to create a bit of blur and soften the image. Continue reading Camera Stability and Long Lenses→
Photographer and visual opportunist. Daily photos since 2005, plus articles, reviews, news, and ideas.
Manage Consent
To provide the best experiences, we use technologies like cookies to store and/or access device information. Consenting to these technologies will allow us to process data such as browsing behavior or unique IDs on this site. Not consenting or withdrawing consent, may adversely affect certain features and functions.
Functional
Always active
The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network.
Preferences
The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user.
Statistics
The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes.The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you.
Marketing
The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.