“Window 15” — A window in a stone wall in the Alfama, Lisbon.
This is another photograph from our stroll through Lisbon’s Alfama district — the oldest part of the city, and a place of narrow, twisting walkways and steep hills. It is also an area with a history of poverty. Here a window is open to reveal plants growing in pots.
I have a theory about a difference between dwellings in places like this and in American suburbia. In the US, where people may have front yards, a few trees, and possibly a single-family dwelling, they use that front space to present themselves — decorating, maintaining, and designing it with appearance in mind. In places like Alfama, the opportunities to do this area far more limited — and my notion is that perhaps more attention is spent on the interior space and that front exterior is often left as is.
“Bubble Dancing” — Children dance and spread soap bubbles at the Praça do Comércio, Lisbon.
On our May visit to Lisbon (and a few other places) one of our first outings was to simply walk down the street to the Praça do Comércio square on the waterfront. It is a pretty obvious tourist thing to do, but it was the morning after a late arrival following about 20 hours of travel… so we were not up for anything too stressful.
Someone had a big bucket of soap and was making bubbles on the square, and a group of exuberant children was running and dancing around them, unconcerned about what anyone else might think.
“Deserted Street, Porto” — Nighttime on a deserted street in Porto.
On our sort-of-first-night in Porto in May we ended up at a little restaurant on this street. (I write “sort-of-first-night” since we had actually stopped for one night earlier on the trip, between Coimbra and our walk in the Douro hills.) We walked out of our hotel looking for a nearby place to eat that didn’t scream “tourist restaurant. We ended up at a little restaurant here, so unobtrusive that you might not even spot its entrance sign in the photo.
I made the photograph a few nights later as we headed back to our hotel from a long walk to the other side of the Douro River and back. We crossed back over the river after sunset, and our route took us past this side street again. This time I thought the night scene looked fascinating, so I paused and photographed down the deserted street.
“Ginginha da Casa” — A man talks to a woman selling ginfinha from her home in the Alfama, Lisbon.
A while ago I shared a near-portrait of one of the Lisbon neighborhood ginginha vendors. This photograph takes in a larger perspective on one of the actual neighborhoods, this time in Alfama. Ginginha is reputedly the “national drink” of various parts of Portugal. (Yeah, I know, to some extent that may be tourism talk.) It is a sweet cherry liqueur served by the shot at sidewalk stands.
The stands are all over the place. The first one we encountered was at a stairway near the railway station in Lisbon. Another more famous one is nearby, not far from Rossio Square. But the most fascinating ones are those set up in the doorways and windows of peoples’ homes. Here a woman sells the drink from her doorway, and a passerby pauses to chat for a while.
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