“Arch, Stairs, and Plants” — Plants line stairs leading to a doorway above an arch, Trogir, Croatia.
Trogir is an intense and fascinating place. The historic old town is on an island that sits in a narrow passage between the Croatian mainland and a much larger island. It was quite crowded during the days and evenings when we visited, not only with those of us who drove (or walked) in but also those who anchored their boats right next the town.
It seems like the whole place is built of stone. The sidewalks/streets are cobblestone, walls are made of stone, and it is by far the most common construction material for buildings. I made this photograph on one of the occasions where we were able to escape the crowds (hint: go in the very early morning) and photograph with fewer distractions.
“Gingihha Vendor” — A woman selling ginginha from her doorway in the Alfama, Lisbon.
One can never be sure things like ginginha are tourism constructs or actual traditions — or perhaps a bit of both. (Parallels include Portugal’s pastel de nata, San Francisco’s Sourdough bread, Belgium waffles, and more.) But I understand, both from reading about it and from seeing it, that gingihna is a traditional drink in many places in Portugal. It is a sweet, cherry liqueur that is often sold on the street, either in small shot glasses or in little chocolate cups that you simply eat when you are done. (Nice way to solve the litter problem!)
You can step up to small ginginha shops and buy one all over the place. But there also appears to be a less formal sales force operating from their front doorways. On our recent visit we saw several women set up this way to sell ginginha, including this woman sitting in her doorway in the Alfama district.
“Passing Storm, Split, Croatia” — A summer storm passes over Split, Croatia.
While staying in Trogir, Croatia, a ways up the coast from Split, we went for a long, looping drive into the mountains and to some rural, agricultural country. Our main objective was an olive-growing area where we stopped in the middle of the day. After that we continued on a route that would take us closer to Split on our return to Trogir.
As we topped the ridge to the east of the town we came to the Klis Fortress — as I understand it, historically this remarkable ridge-top structure guarded the pass that provided access to Split. As we explored the place the weather began to deteriorate, and before long we were running for cover as strong rain showers passed over. This view looks out over Split towards the passing storm.
“Pena Palace” — The Pena Palace, on the summt of a mountain near Sintra, Portugal.
We missed the Pena Palace when we visited Lisbon a few years ago, so this time we made sure to set aside a day for the train ride to Sintra to see it. (It isn’t the only thing there — a remarkable “Moorish castle” is nearby.) The weather was… interesting. We had rain and wind and fog, to the point that it was difficult to be outside on the castle grounds. However, these conditions also made the scene more dramatic than it would have been on another pleasant, blue sky day.
Later I’ll share photographs made on the palace grounds. I made this one while traversing the old walls of the Moorish Castle. It also lies on a ridge, but a lower one than the palace. From there I had a dramatic view looking up to the summit of the ridge where the wildly colorful Pena Palace sits, complete with dark clouds moving past.
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