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Commentary, Locations

More Eastern Sierra Aspen Color Conditions

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I returned very late last night (Sunday, 10/4/ 2009) from a weekend trip to the eastern Sierra to photograph fall aspen colors. It was, as they say, an “interesting” experience – in many ways not quite typical but in others not totally surprising either.  On Saturday I posted “Bishop Creek Aspen Conditions – 10/3/09”  in the early afternoon, so this report takes up where that one left off.

After posting that first report from Starbucks in Bishop I drove back up into the Bishop Creek drainage. After getting a camp site at the Four Jeffrey campground (now a surprising $21/night!) I headed up the road toward South Lake to do some late afternoon and evening photography. The weather was not fully cooperative, to say the least! The predicted high winds were arriving in the eastern Sierra, and I think that anyone can understand the “perfect storm” of low light, high winds, and fluttering aspen leaves! I was still able to work with the conditions and get some interesting stuff, though it was a real challenge. To avoid writing the same thing twice, I’ll hold off on the description of the aspen conditions and cover that below as I describe Sunday shooting.

My final stop on Saturday night before putting the camera away for the day was at South Lake, where the wind was howling and the light was fading fast and the temperature was dropping. As I arrived two rather cold-looking backpackers flagged me down and asked, with a certain amount of intensity, if I would drive them down to Bishop. It turned out that they had just finished a 22 mile day, coming from just below Mather Pass, and were exhausted. Realizing that it was time to recharge my own supply of backpacker hitchhiking karma (e.g. – sometimes I need a ride back to my car!) I agreed to squeeze them into the car and drive them down to Bishop. Continue reading More Eastern Sierra Aspen Color Conditions →

Commentary, Locations, News

Bishop Aspen Creek Conditions – 10/3/09

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(Since posting this message I posted a later update on conditions during this period: “More Eastern Sierra Aspen Color Conditions“.)

I’m currently down in Bishop “doing email” at Starbucks for an hour or so during the harsh light time of the day, so I though I’d post a quick report on conditions in the Bishop Creek area today – along with some (semi-) educated guesses about what lies ahead.

I was up way before dawn this morning and heading up 168 well before the sun came up – there was a bit of light in the sky. My plan was to do “the aspen thing” very early, but as I drove I saw that the clouds were likely to light up in interesting fashion and that it looked like there was some light precipitation on the highest peaks that would soon be illuminated by the sun. So I took a detour out into the Buttermilks on Starlite Road, found a spot looking at Mt. Emerson (?), set up my shot, and waited. I figured that an almost sure thing here was worth a slightly later arrival at the aspens.

The clouds and the wind suggested that the weather forecast of, uh, clouds and wind was probably accurate… I soon finished shooting here and headed up 168. The wind strengthened, at some points blowing hard enough to raise dust clouds on the surrounding slopes. After passing through Aspendell, where the trees are still completely green, I began to see some color just above here. I’d say that it more or less begins above the Cardinal Resort, though the real color starts a bit higher.

I decided more or less spontaneously to try North Lake. I had heard that the “river of color” above the lake had mostly passed its prime and was partially brown, and I knew that the wind would interfere with photographs of the lake, but I also figured that some close-up photographs of sheltered trees might work. There was a fair amount of color along the first part of this road – I came back later and spent some time shooting there as the sun/shadow line approached – and again after the exposed section overlooking Aspendell. Clearly the trees that were further along in the color transitions have taken a bit of a beating from the wind, though there are still quite a few green trees and enough color among the others to make the trip worthwhile. (I also like shooting bare or nearly bare aspen trunks…)

I drove up toward Sabrina but did not stay, instead deciding that the road to South Lake might be more promising. I returned through Aspendell an then turned right to head toward South Lake. The trees before the small village a ways up the road are almost all completely green. Above this village some color starts, and eventually there were some very nice sections. While the conditions ranged from green to yellow to “leaves all gone” and included some brown leaves, there were still plenty of shooting opportunities. I eventually ran out of “good light” as the morning wore on, but I’ll likely had back up that way this afternoon and evening since I located several promising locations.

My general sense of the conditions is that they are a bit unusual. It seems to me that the elevation where the trees start to change color is a bit higher still than I would have expected – it surprised me a bit to see no color at Aspendell, for example. On the other hand, the color started fairly quickly above this level as I ascended. Yes, there are some brown leaves (though these, too, can be interesting photographic subjects) and yes, the wind is blowing down a lot of leaves. But even up high and close to the areas where the leaves have blown down I could find other sheltered groves with excellent color.

So, what now? The weather report still calls for much colder conditions tonight along with the possibility of snow flurries. I think that the aspen conditions in the higher areas are likely to deteriorate somewhat quickly if this holds. On the other hand, there is still a lot of green! The middle and lower elevations have largely not changed yet. Perhaps the change to colder conditions will trigger a change there – and those who are coming up in the next week will find great color.

On another topic: For the past few years Vern Clevenger has had a gallery a couple doors down from the Bishop Starbucks. This morning I saw that Vern is no longer there. I just checked his web site and see that his gallery has moved to Mammoth at 220 Sierra Manor Road . I guess that Bishop’s loss is Mammoth’s gain!

Commentary, Equipment, Popular, Technique

DSLR Sensor Cleaning – My Approach

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Update: June 14, 2023 — I just returned to this article after not reading it for quite some time, perhaps years. I still think it contains useful information, and the steps I describe still represent more or less what I would do today. However, things really have improved when it comes to the dust issue. Back when I had a Canon 5D, dealing with sensor dust was a major issue that required frequent cleanings (often with wet cleaners) AND a lot of spot removal in post. But today that is hardly ever the case. It is actually pretty rare to encounter visible spots, and when they do show up the cameras dust reduction system often takes care of them and they disappear a few frames later. I still firmly believe in tolerating a tiny bit of dust and dealing with it when necessary by using the least intrusive methods first.

When I got my first DSLR (1)  I was very upset if I got any sensor dust in a shot. I was also very paranoid about cleaning the sensor (2), having read too many posts about how one can damage the sensor during cleaning. Now that I’ve used digital cameras for quite some time I’ve gotten over it and life is much, much easier.

Here is a summary of my approach (3) to dealing with sensor junk…

Rule : Modern cameras typically include dust-reduction systems that vibrate the sensor to dislodge dust particles. I set mine to operate automatically each time the camera is turned on or off. In addition to ensuring that the process runs regularly, this automatically runs it after every lens change, the time when you are most likely to pick up dust. You can also manually trigger a dust-reduction system cycle from the control menus, and I do this if I notice a dust spot while shooting. (If you have ever shot for a day or a few days without checking, only to realize that you had picked up a big dust bunny on day one and that it appears in all of your several hundred or more photographs, you will adopt this practice!)

Rule : I don’t worry too much about a small amount of dust in my images. I rarely can get a sensor clean enough to get perfect, dust-free shots at smaller apertures, and when I do the dust will soon return. Rather than obsess about dust-free perfection I quickly fix most small spots in post-processing. I can usually deal with most dust spots in a matter of a few seconds in Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) or Photoshop. (My preference is to do this in ACR during the raw conversion process. This fits better with my workflow which relies on the use of smart layers in Photoshop.)

Rule : When the dust gets to the point that dealing with it in post is no longer efficient, I try the easiest thing first. I use a blower to try to clean out the worst of the stuff. More often than not this is enough and I can go back to relying on rule . Point the tip of a good blower bulb into the chamber but keep the tip itself just outside. As you blow a few dozen puffs into the chamber and toward the sensor, change the angle of the bulb to ensure that you get full coverage. It is probably best to hold the camera with the open chamber facing down. (Don’t overdo it, since the blower can move some dust onto the focus screen of some cameras, leaving annoying bits of dust that do no real harm and will not affect your photographs but which are very difficult to remove.)

Rule : Sometimes rules -#3 aren’t enough and a more direct cleaning of the sensor itself becomes necessary. At this point I used to try a static charged sensor brush, being very careful to avoid letting the brush touch anything but the sensor* glass itself. Yes, the brush can pick up other stuff in the chamber, and I have learned from experience to avoid this. I still occasionally use the brush, but with the availability of the sensor gel products (4), these days I’m more likely to try them before I try a brush, though the brush can still be useful sometimes for stuff caught right up against the edges/corners of the sensor.

Rule : On rare occasions rule fails, too. If the contamination is adhering too firmly to the sensor surface I resort to wet cleaning with Eclipse fluid and PecPads. I can rarely get it right in one attempt, so I plan on having to work at this a bit, but eventually I get a reasonably clean sensor with no streaks. Be very cautious to not use pressure, to not “scrub” the sensor glass, and to not use too much liquid. Let the fluid loosen and/or dissolve the material and gently wipe it off with the pad attached to the “spatula” tool. Read the instructions for this cleaning method very carefully before attempting it. It isn’t terribly difficult but there are a few ways you could go wrong including: pressing too hard and damaging the coating on the sensor glass, transferring lubricants to the sensor from other parts of the camera chamber, leaving streaks on the sensor.

Rule : On very rare occasions a combination of methods is required. Often the wet cleaning works well for me but leaves a few spots of dust on the sensor. For this reason I frequently follow the wet cleaning with a quick once-over with the static charged brush and/or the sensor gel stick.

From all of this, it might sound like I’m sensor-obsessed. I’m not. Remember rule is the one I follow most. I usually go many months between real sensor cleaning sessions, and it is very rare for me to have to resort to a wet cleaning.

In my opinion, it is not necessary to fear the sensor cleaning operation as long as you are reasonably careful. Once you do it a few times it becomes quite quick and easy. Taking your camera to the shop or sending it to the repair facility is going to cost you a significant sum, take considerable time, and probably not result in a cleaner sensor in the end.

However, one photographer pointed out that he has a service plan that includes six free sensor cleanings per year. A few years ago, I would have counseled against relying on this – since early cameras without sensor cleaning systems often needed to be cleaned frequently and on short notice. However, the newer cameras rarely need a serious sensor cleaning – and in this case I can see how simply sending the darn thing in (while you keep shooting with your backup camera) could make sense for some people. (I still feel that you should be able to clean the thing in the field if necessary.)

Notes

(1) Interchangeable lens mirrorless cameras have become widely available since I first wrote this article about sensor cleaning. I use one along with my DSLR system, and both need occasional sensor cleaning — to the techniques described here are also broadly applicable to mirrorless cameras, too.

(2) I’ll anticipate that someone might feel obligated to write, “You aren’t really cleaning the SENSOR! You are cleaning the glass cover over the sensor, you nitwit!” Yes, I know that. It is just easier to refer to the whole assembly as “the sensor.” :-)

(3) Disclaimer: This report describes what I do, but I am not any sort of certified expert on these things – as I wrote, this is “my approach.” I strongly urge you to seek out and learn from other official sources of information on sensor cleaning and related issues. The inside of your camera contains fragile and sensitive electronic and mechanical components and it is possible to cause damage while working there. You should read and carefully consider warnings from the manufacturer of your camera and any accessories and tools you use on it. If you are not convinced that you are competent to do this work on your camera, you can always take it to a professional. I do not claim that my methods are the best or most appropriate, nor that they meet the standards of the manufacturers of the camera equipment nor do I recommend that you use my methods in place of manufacturers’ official recommendations.

(4)  The Sensor Gel product (available here) is a cube of a sticky gel attached to the end of a plastic “wand.” The gel cube is placed in contact with the surface of sensor’s glass cover, and the dust adheres to it. Since the cube is smaller than the sensor, this process is repeated across the sensor surface. Press the cube against a supplied sheet of “sticky paper,” to clean it. I tried the Sensor Gel Stick partially out of desperation, as my aging Canon 5DII had picked up a ridiculous number of dust specks that were resistant to other methods of cleaning. After the first cleaning there were no noticeable spots left on the sensor. I continued to use it during a four-day shoot in Death Valley, a location known for dust—and, again, the result was impressive. The product is not cheap, costing about $50 for the gel stick and the sticky papers. Frankly, I think it is overpriced—but because it works so well I was willing to pay the price. I have recently seen similar products online from other distributors at lower prices, though I cannot vouch for their quality.  I understand that two versions are currently available. One is the “blue” version that I have. The other “pink” version is apparently designed for certain camera brands, particularly for some Sony cameras. Check the product descriptions and make sure you get the right version for your camera.

(Most recent update: June 2023)

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G Dan Mitchell is a California photographer and visual opportunist. His book, “California’s Fall Color: A Photographer’s Guide to Autumn in the Sierra” is available from Heyday Books and Amazon.
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