Tag Archives: hills

Two Highlands Peaks

Two Highlands Peaks
“Two Highlands Peaks” — Soft light on green hills and two distant highlands peaks.

We came upon this scene while driving north from Ullapool, Scotland and then taking a diversion out toward the coast. (We were intrigued by signs promising that we would find blueberry scones, and we just keep going until we… ran out of Scotland at the coast! Sadly, we never found the scones.) We were traveling along some lowland valleys, and at the top of one short incline we looked back and saw this view. Initially the entire scene was shaded by clouds, but since it looked like sunny spots were moving across the landscape we waited until some of that light landed on the foreground.

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Highlands Loch, Mountains, and Sky

Highlands Loch, Mountains, and Sky
“Highlands Loch, Mountains, and Sky” — Dark clouds, a loch, and mountains in the Scottish highlands.

Having just returned from our second long visit to Scotland and the highlands, I’m still trying to form a clear sense of just what defines the character of this landscape. Admittedly, this is a subjective thing, affected by our unique experiences there and by the prior experiences to which we compare that. My touchstone for “mountains” is California’s Sierra Nevada, a generally congenial range with sunshine and access to very high places. By Sierra standards, Scotland’s high places are “low” — but equally spectacular. Scotland definitely does not seem like a “place of sunshine” — instead it is wet, cloudy, and when sunshine comes it is often muted.

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Mountains, Morning Light

Mountains, Morning Light
“Mountains, Morning Light” — Morning light, mist and clouds on Beinn Dearg, Isle of Skye.

As a person who has spent a lifetime exploring California’s High Sierra Nevada, I have seen a lot of rugged, alpine scenes. “My” mountains typically require me to climb to near or above 10,000′ to see scenes like this. But here in Scotland, on the Isle of Skye specifically, the mountains rise from essentially sea level. While the peaks are all below 4000′, they nonetheless present the same alpine scenery I find among the highest peaks in the Sierra.

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Stone Building, Loch Stack

Stone Building, Loch Stack
“Stone Building, Loch Stack” — An old stone building on the shore of Loch Stack in the Scottish highlands.

As we neared the end of our weeklong visit to Skye and the north coast of Scotland we spent a couple of nights at the old lodge at Altnaharra. My understanding is that decades ago this was a place where people from cities came to stay and to fish. It is a sprawling building, with large common rooms downstairs, a dining room, a small bar, and many guest rooms. At one time it was reportedly a luxurious place, at least by the rural standards of its isolated location. (To be honest, today it is a shadow of that historic lodge, but it still carries a resonance of that earlier time.)

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