“Gruinard Beach” — Surf rolls in at Gruinard Beach, Scotland.
We passed this large beach on our way from Ullapool to Applecross, Scotland this past May. We were on a long day trip loop drive out there. I don’t think I really had a good idea of what we’d see or what kinds of country we would pass through, and I was surprised by the many places where our route took us along the ocean coast. This beautiful beach seems to be shallow, with the tides uncovering a wide swath of sand. And, as is so common in this part of Scotland, we could see both the ocean waters and distant high peaks.
“River Applecross” — Spring-green trees line the River Applecross, Scotland.
Trees, much less groves or forests, are a bit of a rarity in much of the Scottish Highlands, at least compared to what we might expect in similar mountain country in the Western United States. Much of the highlands landscape is devoid of trees, and when they appear they are scatted in small groups… or part of tree farms. So it was a very pleasant surprise to arrive on the coast near Applecross and see these lush, green trees next to the River Applecross.
“Below Applecross Pass” — The road from Applecross Pass winds through a deep canyon toward Kishorn and Ardarroch.
We were surprised by this spectacular canyon soon after we began our return drive towards Ullapool from Applecross, on the western Scottish coast. The road climbed steadily from Applecross, passed through barren alpine country, and offered great views to the west toward Skye and other islands. The road leveled off near the high point as it arrived at the pass.
“Highlands Loch, Mountains, and Sky” — Dark clouds, a loch, and mountains in the Scottish highlands.
Having just returned from our second long visit to Scotland and the highlands, I’m still trying to form a clear sense of just what defines the character of this landscape. Admittedly, this is a subjective thing, affected by our unique experiences there and by the prior experiences to which we compare that. My touchstone for “mountains” is California’s Sierra Nevada, a generally congenial range with sunshine and access to very high places. By Sierra standards, Scotland’s high places are “low” — but equally spectacular. Scotland definitely does not seem like a “place of sunshine” — instead it is wet, cloudy, and when sunshine comes it is often muted.
